Largo de São Mamede, nº 7 1250-236 Lisboa
Tel: 213 928 090 - Fax: 213 928 099 - info@f-saomamede.pt
Horário: Das 10:00 às 13:00 horas e das 14:00 às 18:00 horas
The ancient county of S. Mamede that existed at least since 1190, on the slope of the Castel and whose church was in the current Street S. Mamede, ceased to exist in that territory in 1769 and was transferred to the Vale do Pereiro, where it was defined a new area and had established new parish, along the Street Nova de S. Mamede. And this is the 'new' county of S. Mamede that we will try to outline the story, as we shall see, goes back to ancient times.
SINCE THE ORIGINS TO THE MEDIEVAL TIMES
The territory that currently integrates the parish of S. Mamede was certainly populated long before the foundation of the nationality, although there is no archaeological evidence to prove it, other than a stone epigraph, from the Roman, found at the Street da Escola Politécnica.
From the Muslim period stayed, according to some authors, the name Cotovia (of the arabic Kotoubia, minarete) that was used until the XVIII century to designate the hill from the Street D. Pedro V until the Largo do Rato.
After the conquest of Lisbon in 1147, this zone was integrated in the Mártires parish but the only know documents that pointed directly are from the fourteenth century.
The earliest known references relate to the vineyards on the Cotovia and Vale do Pereiro in 1337. They belonged to the Monastery of St. Vicente de Fora and it is known that the leaseholder of the Cotovia was paid as rent 'a good pair of cocks or five coins' (Doc. 1346) and that the winery from the Vale Pereiro profited "ten pounds of Portuguese money paid by S. Martinho (doc. 1344). We had news of this area during the wars with Castela. In 1363, when the army of King Henry of Castela laid siege to Lisbon, they caused havoc around here, after crossing Valverde (Valley Avenue) and settled at the Convent of St. Francisco. Also in 1384, this time the hosts of D. John of Castile caused havoc around here, as told by Fernão Lopes: "And it came on a high mountain, which now call Mount Olivete, and there he was much of the day; and many of his were cutting trees and vineyards and doing all the damage they could. " Note that the name of Mount Olivete has only been used in the fifteenth century, as evidenced by the words of the chronicler, and that there was a farm, where, in 1434, King Duarte sought refuge from the plague that was raging in the city (see Rui de Pina, Crónica de D. Duarte).
XVI CENTURY: THE FARMS AND THE COTOVIA NOVITIATE
The Mount Olivete farm, located on the right side of the path of Cotovia, belonged to Fernão Teles de Meneses, in the mid-sixteenth century. Opposite was the farm of Andrew Smith, whose descendants have teamed up with the Noronhas and constituted a large property across the slope to the valley of S. Benedict. The path of the Cotovia that passed between those two estates, flowed in a broad (later called the Rato), where other paths converged: the Salitre, the Olivais de S. Bento and the road to Ribeira de Alcantara (Rua Sol and Rato). In 1557, the county of Santa Catarina was created, with territory of the Mártires and, in 1567, the county of St José, separated from Santa Justa. These two county´s spread between the territory of the future county S. Mamede, second a dividing line that followed precisely this path of the Cotovia. The urbanization of Bairro Alto-Vila Nova de Andrade, started in 1513, had provided the population development of suburbs of the city, outside the Doors of Santa Catarina, and hence the creation of new counties.
At the end of the sixteenth century, the Fathers of the Society of Jesus were searching a suitable place to found a novitiate. After considering the pros and cons of twenty sites, decided by Mount Olivete, a property that was part of the dowry of Fernão Teles de Meneses left in 1598 and encompassed the desired conditions: "Because this place is very healthy, good views and near San Roque and the city, with wells and roomy to place home and garden; and this place was called Mount Olivete, and by another name the Cotovia . " The foundations were launched in 1603, the Jesuit priests gave the project to the architect Baltasar Alvares in 1607, and the works were completed in 1616. The first novices went there in 1619 and there continued this important religious house, with a huge fence to the Rato and Salitre, for many years until the expiry of the Society of Jesus in 1759.
THE XVI CENTURY CONVENTS
Including the Novitiate of the Cotovia there were five conventual houses who settled in this area during the 17th century and the beginning of the 18th century. Before 1611, D. Jorge de Ataide, Count of Castanheira, donated his property above Valverde, called the Horta da Palmeira (Salitre Street), to the Franciscan friars Cartuxos so they could establish a Hospital there. The Rato Convent, outside the limits of S. Mamede, but with undeniable influence in its urban dynamism, was founded in 1614, as we have seen before regarding the county of Santa Isabel.
On a date we can not specify, but certainly before 1710, the Fathers of the Congregation of the Oratory of S. Filipe de Nery, also called Fathers Quentais, came to establish their convent . Their houses and property were, after 1755, the Quinta and patio do Geraldes and endured until 1936, when the block between Rua Castilho and Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca was urbanized. The other was the convent of Nossa Senhora da Conceição dos Cardais, now outside the bounds of the county, which dates from 1681-1703.
THE AQUEDUCT AND THE SILK FACTORY
The eighteenth century has brought great changes to S. Mamede, even before the 1755 earthquake. Around 1720, they began building homes in the Largo do Rato, on the lands leased by the nuns of the nearby convent. At the extreme opposite of the parish (now Principe Real Square), the works in the palace of Count Tarouca began in 1728, never completed and on whose foundation was built the Basilica Patriarcal, which opened in 1756. One of the most imposing “Joaninas” works , the Águas Livres Aqueduct, was then being built (1713-1748), ending as it is known in the S. Mamede county. On October, 30, 1744, the water flowed for the first time in a improvised tank on the Rato, about six thousand people attended the memorable event. In 1748, a triumphal arch was erected to celebrate the "entry of water in the city" - the Arch Amoreiras. The Mãe-de-Agua, started in 1744 was only completed in 1834 and had works in 1859. The Fountain of the Rato (1753-1754), a work attributed to Carlos Mardel, is now in is actual place since 1794.
On the grounds of Quinta D. Rodrigo de Noronha, near the Rato, the silk factory was installed in 1738, founded by the Frenchman Robert Godin and had his first insta1ations in Fonte Santa (1734) and Street S. Bento (1737). Inaugurated in 1741, the new plant had in 1744 28 officers and 70 apprentices. So that the weavers weren,t distracted with the movement in the Cotovia Street and Largo do Rato, partitions were placed in front of the windows. In the building, the owner installed a butcher and a bakery and in 1749, a working class neighborhood was built that left two houses in the Street Maestro Pedro de Freitas Branco. In 1750, the state appropriated the factory, following the insolvency of Robert Godin.
It should be noted that in 1741, the county of Santa Isabel was created, and covered practically the entire territory of the future S. Mamede county, except for two plots which were within the limits of s. José and s. Sebastião da Pedreira.
AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE
The earthquake of 1755 "collapsed on the Rato a crowd of outlaws" (Gustavo Matos Sequeira, After the Earthquake, vol. III, p. 383). It quickly turned into a great camp, with tents and makeshift tents that housed thousands of people. From one day to another, there was all kinds of trade: vegetable markets, butcher shops, chapels, goldsmiths and many other dealers. Some of the tents were luxurious, such as the Marquis of Louriçal which had cost thirty or forty thousand Crusaders and looked like a palace, or the Desembargo do Paço with painted paneling.
In early 1756, the D. Helena farm alone (near the current Rua S. Filipe Nery) had more than 200 tents. The St. Isabel priest, in 1757, also noted 5249 refugees. However, the regiments coming from the countryside stayed foot, following the Marquês of Pombal orders, to impose order and prevent theft. In the Quinta dos Padres do Oratório was running the Court of the town council, while in the silk factory was the Court of Appeal Patriarchy. Masses, sermons, penances, processions almost every day, there was everything in the camp, in a 'new city that was difficult to end "(Gustavo Matos Sequeira, op cit.., Vol. IV, p. 274).
In 1759, according to the plan of Carlos Mardel, began the urbanization of that space to the west of the arches of the Aqueduct, becoming an industrial neighborhood, the District of Manufacturers. In addition to several factories and workers' residences, formed a true core training, the Royal College of Manufacturers.
The Royal silk factory, established in 1757 by the Marques do Pombal now has another large building in the neighborhood of Manufacturers, where in 1764 the combs factory was installed and in 1765, the Clocks factory, and there are other manufactures such as hats, buttons, cutlery, seals, varnishes, etc.. The Factory of Louça do Rato was founded in 1767, between the district and the Largo do Rato. The Brotherhood of the Silk Manufacturers had built the shrine of Our Lady of Montserrat, in an arc ranging from the Aqueduct, in 1768. Three years later on the square mulberry trees were planted, which gave the name to the square, and the site.
Another important initiative of the Marques do Pombal was the creation of the College of Nobles in 1761. The building that served for its installation was the novitiate of the Cotovia, available since the expulsion of the Jesuits in 1759. It was necessary to repair the damage of the earthquake and adequate the space for the new functions, and Carlos Mardel was in charge of the modernization. The Patriarchal Basilica, as we have seen, was inaugurated in 1756 and destroyed by a fire in 1769. Had been arson and the guilty was found, a Alexander Vincent that was tortured at the crime scene (strangled and burnt alive). At the site, now called the Patriarchy Burn.
New buildings followed another, promoted by the state or by individuals, and it was in this area that the bourgeoisie ordered to build their palaces: the Palazzo Alagoas (1757-1762), the family Cruz-Alagoa; the Palace Ceia (c.1760) built by Rebelo de Andrade, the Palace dos Guiões (1767), owned by the judge José Romão da Rosa Guião. The noble houses of the Noronhas were adapted for the installation, in 1768, of the Regal Typographical Workshop, later designated the National Press (1833).
CREATION OF THE COUNTY
On 18 December 1769, the county of St. Mamede was transferred to the new district and was used as temporary headquarters the chapel of Nossa Senhora Mãe dos Homens (Fund. 1749), in Vale do Pereiro (at the confluence of current and Braamcamp Rua Rua Alexandre Herculano ).
The remodeling of the Lisbon counties, officialized in L770, had a first delimitation of the territory of S. Mamede, which was amended in 1780, leaving then with the limits that currently holds approximately. It seems interesting to transcribe the document demarcation 1780:
«The beginning of this Parish, transmuted to the site of the Rato at the occidental corner of the Calçada das Flores down to the Praça da Alegria, walking on the right side towards the Royal College of Nobles, and down the Rua de S. Marçal, you will return by the Travessa Santo Antonio, Travessa do Arco to get off at the Street S. Bento, and that, taking all the eastern side, again by both sides to the square of the Rato, Convent of the Religiosas Trinas de Campolide you will climb by the road that goes to S. João dos Bem Casados, and using the same until they return back to Campolide only from the eastern part of this, you will get to the Rua do Salitre, and continue to the new street that leads to the front of the Houses of the heirs of José Francisco da Cruz, from which returns to the Royal College of Nobles, where this circumference shall end».
In the territory so defined, lived in 1780, 3786 people in 749 fires.
In 1782 the new church started to be build, where the parish was established in 1783, but whose works have long time.
During this period, some palaces were constructed, as for example the Palace Praia (1784) and the Palace Palmela (1792), but the big news in this area was, without doubt the neighborhood of the Cotovia or the Pombal, built on the initiative of a ' company Reedificadora ', from 1760 in the West slope of the former road from the Cotovia until Street s. Bento and between Patriarcal Queimada and solar Noronhas (where there was a dovecote which gave name to the site).
This outbreak of urbanization has contributed greatly to the increase in population seen in 1798. The parish of s. Mamede had now 1182 fires and around 6370 inhabitants.
S. MAMEDE IN THE FIRST HALF OF CENTURY XIX
After a very atribulated century XVIII, the county of S. Mamede knew a period of some stagnation until the middle of century XIX.
Through a chronology, the most significant events in the first half of century XIX can be highlighted:
1801 - popu1ation: 6.370; Houses: 1.187.
1805 - S. Mamede was built.
1810 - In the courtyard of the Gil (Street of S. Bento), Alexander Herculano is born.
1817 - Gomes Freire de Andrade is arrested in is house on Street Salitre.
1820 - Population: 5.200; Houses: 1.208.
1822-42 - Remodeling of the Palmela Palace.
1833 - Popu1ation: 5.360; Houses: 1.224.
1835 - The dishware factory of the Rato ends.
1837 - Extinction of the College of the Noblemen and creation of the Polytechnical School.
1839 - Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Bonança (chapel Rato).
1840 - Popu1ation: 3.946; Houses: 1.035.
1843 - Fire at the College of the Noblemen.
S. MAMEDE DURING REGENERATION
Although in a less obvious way than in other areas of the city, also in S. Mamede was noted the economics and urban stability that was achieved with the Regeneration after 1851. The urban story of the county in this period can be outlined through a chronological:
1851 - Amoreiras fair.
1853 - Portuguese-British College (Guiões Palace).
1855 - Domingos Martins pub (Flor do Rato ).
1860 - Opened the tram Rato-Santa Apolónia connection.
1861 - Opened the church S. Mamede.
1863 - Astronomical observatory of Monte Olivete.
- Palace Fontalva.
- Water reservoir of the Patriarcal.
1864 - Population: 4.922; Houses: 1.331.
1867 - Police station, on the Rato.
1873 - Botanical garden.
1877 - Ribeiro da Cunha palace.
1878 - Population: 6.268.
1879 - Monteiro courtyard.
1880-96 – Rato teather.
1890 - Population: 7.789; Houses: 1.663.
- Vila Bagatela.
1897 - Royal Silk factory fire (Rato).
1899 - Mayer palace.
1900 - Population: 8.102; Houses: 1.719.
S. MAMEDE FROM THE BEGINING OF THE CENTURY TO OUR DAYS
At the beggining of the 20th century, the county of s. Mamede saw the quick disapperance of the farms at the North of their territory.
With the opening of the Alexandre Hercu1ano street, Casti1ho street, Rodrigo da Fonseca street, the lanes Vale Pereiro and Lazarus Green disappeared and the surrounding countryside, was filled with mansions and villas in accordance with the end of the century eclectic taste, for example: Casa Ventura Terra (1902), Synagogue (1902-1904), twin buildings Braamcamp Street, 84 and 88 (1907) or the Auto-Palace garage (1906), with elements of Art Nouveau.
In 1921, a fire destroyed the church of S. Mamede completely, then reconstructed and reopened to worship in 1924.
The Institute of Scientific Investigation Bento of Rocha Cabral, dates from 1925. The 1º of December market (to the Rato) was inaugurated in 1927. As for the Mayer Park it was inaugurated in 1922.
Between 1930-1940 the Street of Artilharia Um was opened, replacing the old road of Entremuros. At the same time modifications were done in the Brasil Square (Largo do Rato) and the set of buildings “Art Deco” were constructed in the block between the Street Nova de S. Mamede and Street Salitre.
Between 1930-1940 the Artilharia Um Street was open, replacing the old Entremuros road. At the same time changes were made in the Brazil's Square (Largo do Rato) and the complex of 'Art Deco' buildings and radical modernism on the block between Rua Nova de S. Mamede and Rua do Salitre were built.
Between 1930-1940 the Street of Artillery One was opened, replacing the old road of Entremuros. In the same height it was proceeded modifications in the Square from Brazil (Wide of the Rat) and was constructed to the set of buildings “Art Deco” and radical modernismo in the block enters the New Street of S. Mamede and Street Salitre.
Finally, let's look at the demographic developments of this century:
YEAR RESIDENT POPULATION
1911 08.659
1920 08.207
1930 09.204
1940 14.875
1950 17.100
1960 13.888
1970 10.245
1981 10.268
1991 07.457
2001 06.100
Text taken from the book:
Pelas FREGUESIAS de LISBOA - DE CAMPO DE OURIQUE À AVENIDA
SANTO CONDESTÁVEL; SANTA ISABEL; SÃO MAMEDE; CORAÇÃO DE JESUS
Volume 3
Authors: Carlos Consiglieri, Filomena Ribeiro, José Manuel Vargas and Marília Abel
Educational library of the C. M. L. 1995
Aberto: Segunda a Domingo
R Escola Politécnica 82-B
1250-102 LISBOA
Telef: 213 960 280
